The last of our 2022 Red Burgundy offers this year is a brilliant producer we can’t help getting excited about, Stéphane Magnien.
Stéphane is a winemaker with a soaring reputation particularly with Allen Meadows and Jasper Morris. But the wines remain excellent value despite this giddy ascent. His 2022’s which are the greatest set he has produced to date, are actually down in price overall on the last year… Others please take note…
We tasted last November and then again in March this year at Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne alongside Lambrays, Dujac, Groffier and others. Magnien’s wines blew our mind that day even in this company – that’s how good they were. They are incredible buys in this day and age.
Morris and Meadows, arguably the major worldwide Burgundy critics, have recently discovered this superb little domaine. Stéphane’s star has risen even further as the 2022’s below demonstrate, showcasing the younger generation now working in Burgundy. Stéphane Magnien’s wines are clearly on a new level. Vivacity and character shine throughout the range, easily holding their own in aforementioned superstar company
They benefit from a high proportion of old vines and particularly from the use of an old, small-berried clone of Pinot Noir – Pinot Tordu – which heightens the perfume and haunting aromas in the wines. One whiff of Les Faconnieres or the ancient vine Chambolle V.V. below and you’ll see the difference.
Stéphane represents the 4th family generation at the domaine. No herbicides, manual tilling, organic composts, light oak, no fining nor filtration here. The wines show great vitality and exemplify meticulously tended vineyards. From stupendous village-level wines to the few bottles of Grand Cru that come our way, Magnien’s 2022s are genuinely wonderful.
Morey St Denis Grains Fins shows excitement factor straight from the off and Morey 1er Cru Faconnieres – a spectacular aromatic 1er Cru close to Clos de la Roche – must rank as the best yet we have tasted to date here. Les Petits Noix benefits from Morey’s spice and shows glorious mid-palate depth – an almost supercharged resonance which lifts this 1er Cru to new heights. The Charmes Chambertin – pure Mazoyeres – is especially bright with amazingly expressive cherry and blue fruits. It has become more special year by year. Buyers allocated a 3-bottle case of the ‘piece de resistance’ Clos St Denis, are in for something quite glorious – it is just about perfect.
The wines are all in stock and ready for delivery or transfer.
2022 Domaine Stéphane Magnien, Morey St Denis Grains Fins
GBP 165 per case in bond (6x75cl)
Only 10% new oak, hailing from mainly calcaire soils in Les Crais Gillon and Bas Chenevery (next to the 1er Cru Chenevery.) Explosively perfumed with deep red and blue fruit. Could be a Chambolle with such fragrance! Generous and exciting wine on the palate with a superb definition for a wine at this price. Hints of violet. Textured mouthfeel and dark fruit with wonderful tension and excellent limestone dimension. Absolutely superb for its level – an obvious top value.
91+ points, Brunswick FW
‘A fresh, bright and airy nose reflects notes of mostly red berries and newly turned earth. The supple, round and agreeably textured flavors are not especially dense but the finish is also inviting despite being dusty and youthfully austere. A few years of patience should be beneficial. Drink 2028+.’
89-91 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound
2022 Domaine Stéphane Magnien, Morey St Denis Vieilles Vignes
GBP 199 per case in bond (6x75cl)
From 55-year-old vines in Clos Solon and Cognees there is more clay underlying this wine and the terroir shows darker, creamier and denser fruit. Pronounced perfume and depth – with a touch of Morey spice and mineral. Old vines depth come through and the fruit stains the palate. A touch more of a stony mineral note, but a tremendous inner mouth perfume of spring flowers. Smooth, velvety strokes and greater power but balanced by its lift. Tensile – a longer term wine. ‘Pur Pinot’ but greater structure. Unbelievable value.
91++ points, Brunswick FW
‘Moderate reduction dominates the nose at present. There is both better complexity and mid-palate density to the still supple and delicious medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a more powerful and noticeably more structured finale. This has fine development potential and is a wine that will need at least some patience .Drink 2030+.’
89-91 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound
2022 Domaine Stéphane Magnien, Chambolle Musigny Vieille Vigne
GBP 225 per case in bond (6x75cl)
Vines planted in 1902, this vineyard is from the tiny berried Pinot Tordu clone and the intensity and perfume go up a register – almost profound density allied to gorgeous violet and petals. Attractive, palate entry and a quite spectacular inner mouth perfume – brilliant crunchy fruit – Stephane says ‘croquante’ but super harmony and feel from those old vines. Ultra-charming Chambolle Musigny but serious wine of notable depth, at the same time.
92+ points, Brunswick FW
‘A ripe and beautifully layered nose combines notes of plum and dark berries with those of earth and pretty floral nuances. The old vines are in evidence as there is notably better density to the succulent and plush medium weight flavors that display excellent length on the firm, serious and powerful finish. This is an excellent villages though I underscore that it is not a Chambolle of lace and grace. Drink 2032+.’
89-92 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound
2022 Domaine Stéphane Magnien, Morey St Denis 1er Cru, Aux Petites Noix
GBP 295 per case in bond (6x75cl)
From Gruenchers and Clos Baulet below Clos des Lambrays. 20% whole bunch. Spice and dark fruit. Inviting fruit – a whole bunch crunch. High energy fruit and the perfume lies on the palate. Much more expressive on tasting – so bright – pen ink, violets, chocolate, red and dark fruit. Lovely texture – more palate weight here. Superb ‘matiere’ – real depth and has a resounding, palate staining quality. A top notch 1er Cru exhibiting the natural balance of the vintage.
93+ points, Brunswick FW
‘Once again there is a plethora of floral elements present on the elegant nose of red currant, cherry and pretty spice wisps. The succulent, fleshy and punchy middleweight flavors a really lovely texture that carries over to the youthfully austere and delicately balanced finale. Excellent. Drink 2032+.’
91-93 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound
2022 Domaine Stéphane Magnien, Morey St Denis 1er Cru, Les Faconnieres
GBP 325 per case in bond (6x75cl)
Just below Clos de la Roche, Faconnieres is stony producing small berries with thicker skins. Beautiful aromatics. A truly fantastic nose of dark, purple fruit and violets – explosive aromatically, surely the essence of Burgundy. Joyous wild strawberry highlights with delightful floral nuances. Superior. Fleshy and generous but it is also extremely vibrant and juicy with an integrated structure that flows across the palate with captivating aromas from beginning to end. Super-expressive, succulent and a joy-giver. It is one of Morey St Denis’s top 1er Crus and Stephane has clearly made the most of it. Simply a must-buy wine.
94+ points, Brunswick FW
‘This is even more floral-suffused with its elegant, cool and airy aromas of mostly red and dark pinot fruit that is nuanced by hints of spice and earth. The delicious and intensely mineral-driven larger-scaled flavors also brim with sappy dry extract that serves to buffer the firm tannic spine shaping the powerful and lingering finish where the only nit is a hint of backend warmth. Drink 2032+.’
90-93 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound
2022 Domaine Stéphane Magnien, Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru, Les Sentiers
GBP 375 per case in bond (6x75cl)
A blend of vines from 40 to 65 years old with some planted in 1902. Just 400 metres across the Morey border, lying below Bonnes Mares, Sentiers sees 20-25% new oak, revealing splashes of ink, sweet dark berry fruit and a beautiful ‘aerien’ floral aspect. On the palate a blast of rocky terroir accompanies the complex nose. Silky in texture – or velour perhaps – it conveys an intense palate of dark, violet-tinged fruit and minerals. Crunchy fruit – it sings – but in time will be a wine of many layers. Precision and fine tannins and excellent acidity show structural integrity. Long with inherent Chambolle complexity for the years ahead – close to being a steal for Sentiers.
93+ points, Brunswick FW
‘ A slightly more elegant and more floral-suffused nose displays notes of violet, lavender and plum liqueur. There is fine mid-palate density to the suave and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract before terminating in a bitter pit fruit and nicely balanced finale. This is also quite good with an understated delivery. Drink 2030+.’
90-92 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound
2022 Domaine Stéphane Magnien, Charmes Chambertin, Grand Cru
GBP 775 per case in bond (6x75cl)
A small holding of 20 ares situated in Mazoyeres, some trained Cordon Royat. Cherries and charm! Round and expressive – ‘spherical’ says Stephane. Absolute harmony here epitomising the name of the vineyard. Rose petals – beautiful – and then shiny ripe cherries. A real swathe of tiny bursting berries interlaced with further purple flowers. Brilliantly lifted. Supremely silky on entry but not a ‘big’ wine. It is all about the allure and finesse. The gorgeous nose is matched on the palate. Hard to avoid the word ‘sexy’. Blue fruit tones with a faint limestone echo amidst the svelte fruit. Succulence and purity. It is a great Charmes Chambertin. Absolutely gorgeous – a further step up in a superb portfolio.
95 points, Brunswick FW
‘A spicy and very fresh nose is comprised by notes of purple fruit, earth and sauvage hints. The seductive velvet-textured medium-bodied flavors possess good punch and power on the mouthcoating, lingering and balanced finale. This is certainly quite good but it doesn’t have the extra dimension of the Monts Luisants. Drink 2034+.’
91-94 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound
2022 Domaine Stéphane Magnien, Clos St Denis, Grand Cru
GBP 450 per case in bond (3x75cl)
From 65-year-old vines using the perfumed Tordu clone, this is located in the original, prime climat of the CSD Grand Cru before it was extended. Initially slightly reticent, the wine on aeration becomes increasingly expressive and positively exuberant with a marvellous exotic potpourri of haunting scents and flavours. Dark and red fruit with a limestone minerality to underpin things. So complex. Ripe cherry, Earl Grey, an abundance of petals. On the palate it just flows – long, flowing, pure – with Grand Cru concentration. This feels just about perfect structurally. Precise control and highly strung tension make it shine brightly. Extremely refined. A masterclass in a glass.
96+ points, Brunswick FW
‘More reticent if superbly elegant aromas reflect notes of cassis, black cherry and a wonderful array of spice nuances. The gorgeously textured and highly seductive, even silky, larger-scaled, precise and energetic flavors exude an appealing minerality on the dusty but not austere finish that is easily the most complex in the range. This is extremely classy and if you can find it, don’t hesitate. Don’t miss! Drink 2034+.’
93-96 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound
