Robert Parker 95
The 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is promising, unwinding in the glass with a dark and brooding bouquet of cassis, elderberries and plums mingled with notions of smoked duck, spices, bitter orange and rose petals. Full-bodied, deep and layered, it’s rich and concentrated (reflecting derisory yields of only 15 hectoliters per hectare), with powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, resonant finish. With the 2020, we begin to approach the levels of intensity and texture found in the domaine’s wines of yesteryear, and if this wine realizes all its promise, my score will look conservative.
The 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru comprises of 80% to 85% whole bunch this year. Since 2019, Jacques Devauges has utilised smaller tanks to vinify subplots separately and raised in several cooperages rather than just François Frères (60% new oak). It has a classically-styled bouquet, very well defined, very fresh, red berry fruit with touches of shucked oyster shell, light loamy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins, very fresh and full of tension. The mineralité clearly comes through on the finish that is far more precise than previous vintages, long and tender on the aftertaste. Cool, calm and collected, this is a riveting Clos des Lambrays.
Anticipated maturity: 2026-2060