The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a lovely bouquet, despite initially being reduced, with lilting red berry fruit and hints of sous-bois and tobacco—very precise and, in context of the vintage, classical in style. The palate is medium-bodied and slightly coarse. Perhaps a bit of whole bunch fruit [75%] here is lending pepperiness toward the finish. Cohesive from start to finish, I like the manner in which this builds and fans out on the close. Extremely good winemaking in evidence here. Having been misadvised that this was in fact a flight of Premier Crus, given its propensity for aging, I would have been more generous in my score. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.
Anticipated maturity: 2027-2045
Robert Parker 95
The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with scents of raspberries, cherries, warm spices, rose petals, peonies and violets. Full-bodied, muscular and concentrated, it’s rich and structured, with bright acids and prodigious reserves of powdery tannin. Broad-shouldered and powerful, it willâ€”as usualâ€”require patience.
‘Terres rouges’ is very close to the northern limit with Morey. ‘Terres blanches’ is above the path that dissects Bonnes Mares. Roumier has three parcels from far north to far south. Pruning identical. In 2016 he was able to include for the first time the fruit from an extra hectare of land owned by Ficofi – planted in 1995, in a good state and a little more vigorous than his – in the terres blanches. Now they have several, at least five, different parcels. Unracked cask sample. Serious stuff on the nose. Concentrated blackberry-jam impression on the palate. Dramatic and opulent. Quite sweet and with lots of elements here but maybe not the most appetising wine? Impressive, certainly.
Anticipated maturity: 2029-2050