Robert Parker 91
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussiere is a real success, and decidedly reminiscent of the domaine’s excellent 2007. Offering up aromas of sweet red berries, warm spices, peony and subtle soil tones, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a fine core of fruit that cloaks its rich but fine-grained tannic chassis. While it’s an elegant rendition of the Clos de la Bussiere, this always needs bottle age.
Monopole of less than 2.59 ha (6.4 acres). Monopole since the 12th century. Opposite the entrance to Dujac. Bought in the 1950s by Christophe’s grandad. Not in good nick so he started to renew it in 1955 and last phase of renewal was 1994. South of Morey. Lots of clay. 25% new barrels, 45% whole bunch. Barrel sample. Pure and slightly peppery dark fruit. So coaly on the palate, dark layers of sober fruit, utter beauty without any show. Perfect restraint. More compact than the Chambolle. So moreish and without flirtatiousness. Serious and seriously beautiful. Gorgeous. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2033
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru was broody when I first tasted it from barrel. In bottle it has certainly opened up nicely, quintessentially "Morey" in style with dark berry fruit, sous-bois and a very subtle herbal element that derives from a summer that was less warm than 2016 or 2018. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, gentle grip and fine-boned tannins. There is wonderful salinity towards the finish, open and dare I say, virtually ready for business. Does it have the substance to deliver long-term cellaring? Of that, I am not so sure, but I don’t think this wine really cares to be quite honest. [Readers should note that this markedly improved the second evening after opening, evolving greater cohesion and a little more corpulence.]
Anticipated maturity: 2022-2038