Robert Parker 94
The 2017 Echezeaux Grand Cru is also showing very well, having gained in depth and precision in the year since I last tasted it. Opening in the glass with aromas of red berries, cherries, orange rind, sweet soil tones, spices and peonies, it’s medium to full-bodied, with a broader, more textural attack than the Malconsorts, underpinned by similarly powdery tannins and lively acids. This looks to be a longer-haul proposition than I had imagined, and at least a modicum of patience will be in order.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045
The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a well defined bouquet of red and black fruit, the hints of black olive and light undergrowth turning into more tea leaf and bay leaf aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannin and a little oaky at the moment, but there is sufficient fruit to subsume the wood. I would just like a little more complexity to show through on the finish, like the Malconsorts.
Anticipated maturity: 2022-2040
Average 85% whole bunch. Northern end of Vosne. Partly frosted in 2016, which may have affected it in 2017 ” 40 hl/ha yield. This wine was often foursquare in the past, explains Jeremy Seysses, but it’s getting more refined since they have been farming biodynamically (since 2001). Charmes became more muscular with biodynamics, which reinforces personality, suggests Seysses. Barrel sample. Leaning to fine-tannined character. Beautifully fragrant ” peony and maybe violets. Irresistible fragrance. Quite light on the palate. A very delicate echezeaux. Incredibly fine. Distinctive. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2037