(14.5% alcohol): Good dark red but not as ruby as in some past very ripe years. Initially a bit stunted, even fermentative, on the nose, this wine opened with air to show much more precise notes of small wild red and purple fruits, licorice pastille and lavender. The very pure, sweet purple fruits are lifted on the palate by lavender and violet notes but this is stubbornly backward today, like a blueprint for a great Burgundy. Penetrating minerality and firm acidity should give this very stylish, utterly seamless wine a long future, but will it ever show the sweetness of the Griottes?
Robert Parker 94
The 2015 Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a sophisticated bouquet, perhaps more nuanced than Roty’s two other grand crus, with exquisite aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and crushed strawberry infused with cold stones. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very focused and animated with a tang of marmalade, sour cherry and what feels like a saline finish. Underlying that is a slight gamey note that may become more pronounced as the wine ages. Très bon.
Anticipated maturity: 2022-2045