Robert Parker 91-93
The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières is much more expressive than the Meursault Charmes at this stage – great minerality, a little more verve and animation. The palate is taut on the entry with a fine line of acidity, satisfying depth and grip with a persistent, walnut and sea salt finish that just goes on and on. This is one of several great wines from this premier cru in 2014, and is one of Pierre-Yves’ best contributions to the vintage. I visited Pierre-Yves Colin after Nicolas Rossignol. Whilst the latter is about to make lock, stock and François Frère into a new facility, Pierre-Yves has just done it. In August 2015 to be exact, moving his 2014s barrel by barrel, leaving them for one month before racking. His brand new winery sits opposite the small but growing cluster of growers on the industrial estate outside Chassagne, joining Philippe Colin, Michel Niellon and Jean-Marc Pillot. What attracts them? Simple…space. Pierre-Yves told me how in the village of Chassagne he would have to transfer the wines between different cellars and was doing the press almost in his garden to the chagrin of his neighbors when he started at six in the morning.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035
(4.7 grams per liter acidity): Bright, light yellow. Very ripe, slightly exotic aromas of candied citrus fruits. Round, spicy and deep; at once thicker and more energetic than the Charmes. This wonderfully pliant, silky wine is downright creamy for the year. Really saturates the mouth and echoes on the finish, showing subtle floral lift. The wine’s spine of acidity is only apparent with extended aeration.
Anticipated maturity: 2021-2031
Barrel sample. Higher parcel from which he has bought since 2001, high part calcaire but quite deep. ‘For me Genevrières isn’t inferior to Perrières,’ says PY, ‘at least’. He admits this refers specifically to his parcels. Spicy and dense. Well sculpted. Lots of density and potential. Very long and vibrato.
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2028