Rather a wet summer followed by a usefully drying wind and picked, after a few days’ shrivel time, from 20 September over a week. 39 of the usual 45 plots went into this ‘composition’ with three Aÿ Pinot lots and three from Avize excluded. 32% oak-fermented. No malo. As usual 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay from Roederer’s own 100% organically grown vineyards from some of the best sites. Disgorged in June 2021, dosage 7 g/l. Broad nose with floral notes on the nose and some strong citrus notes–lime?–on the palate with an incredibly tight texture that seems to be focused on a single point on the finish. This is surely a wine to wait for? Enormous tension but I think I’d prefer it to develop a bit more breadth ideally. Though there already is some sort of serious register on the finish. Dense and still extremely tense. This clearly has a great future ahead of it and I hope very much to encounter it in future.
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2040
Robert Parker 96
The 2014 Cristal is a terrific effort that transcends the vintage. Bursting from the glass with expressive aromas of ripe citrus fruit, nectarine, white flowers, freshly baked bread and subtle hints of honeycomb, it’s medium to full-bodied, vinous and fleshy, with an exuberant core of fruit that’s girdled by racy acids, resulting in a wine that’s simultaneously chiseled and demonstrative, meaning that early appeal doesn’t come at the expense of the requisite tension for long-term cellaring. Concluding with a long, aromatic and intensely chalky finish, it is a brilliant Champagne that will offer a broad drinking window. This bottle was disgorged in June 2021 with seven grams per liter dosage.
Anticipated maturity: 2021-2050