Robert Parker 94
Pierre-Yves almost forgot to show me his 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, which I had to take back to my hotel room and cool down myself to the correct temperature. It has a precise bouquet with seamlessly integrated oak just lifting up those lime flower, apricot blossom and brioche scents. The palate has a fine line of acidity and wonderful focus: shimmering green lemon and white peach notes. They fan out toward the precise, mineral-laden finish. This is divine – at the right temperature of course! Following last issue’s “amuse bouche,” I could not miss an opportunity to visit Pierre-Yves at his winery in the village of Chassagne to take a look at his 2011s. “I like the 2011s because they give a lot of pleasure when they are young,” he said to me. “But I think they could age very well. The wines are on the ripe side – a bit like 2001 or maybe 2002. But I think it is a complete vintage. Personally, I prefer 2010 which is more on the mineral side, but the 2011s appeal to a wider audience, and in a way, bring people to Burgundy. When the customers come to the estate, they seem to have never heard about the 2011 vintage and so they do not know what to expect. But when they taste them they were quite easy to sell.” Pierre-Yves 2011s do not disappoint, mostly imbued with the delineation and poise we have come to expect from this top-tier producer who demonstrates that you do not necessarily have to own all your vines to create exceptional wines. We briefly discussed his move away from new oak and he admitted that perhaps during his initial vintages he was trying to impress. That is only natural. He has retreated from the cooperage to employ a minimal amount of new wood and things are about to change again. He had just taken delivery of two 11-hectolitre wooden troconic tanks that he will trial with the 2013 vintage, probably on one of the St. Aubin wines such as En Remilly. I cannot wait to taste the results. The Chassagne-Montrachets underwent a longer elevage than the St. Aubins and were bottled two months prior to my visit in July 2013. Importer: Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 343-4054
(a 50/50 blend of vines from Pernand and Aloxe, with both parcels picked the same day): Pale green-tinged yellow. Pungent aromas of lemon, lime, apple, crushed stone, nutmeg and medicinal herbs. Wonderfully intense, backward wine with almost painful penetration to its pineapple and crushed stone flavors. Finishes with uncanny aromatic persistence for the vintage. Structured for a graceful evolution in bottle. I wouldn’t go near this for at least five or six years.
2003 onwards. ‘From then I had half from Pernand (high) and half from Aloxe (mid). We pick them the same day and blend in pressoir.’ Suave and well balanced. Rich and complete. Very exciting. Nervy but rich. Sleek and racy. Dense.
Anticipated maturity: 2016-2024