‘Terres rouges’: very close to the northern limit, with Morey. Taille identical. 30% new oak. This year 45% of the blend will be from this one. Broad and rich, velvety, even slightly creamed mushrooms on the nose. Still a little oak on the palate but the fruit is so powerful that this will surely diminish soon. Big and powerful. Third-use barrel still leaves its mark! Firm finish. ‘Terres blanches’: above the path that dissects the Bonnes Mares. Roumier has three parcels from far north to far south. More lifted than the Terres Rouges, really racy and thoroughbred. Aerienne. Firm and textured with marked acidity. Quite different from the Terres Rouges. Assemblage (45% rouges, 55% blanches): So much greater than the elements! Very thorough and well integrated. Firm and dense. Very complementary though the density slightly overwhelms the delicacy. Dry finish.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040
Good dark red. Musky, lively aromas of raspberry, cherry liqueur and bitter chocolate. Silky red berry, red cherry and brown spice flavors are leavened by penetrating acidity, with a hint of woodsmoke adding complexity. Very sappy grand cru with good medicinal reserve; a bit compact today. This is darker in its fruit quality than the foregoing samples and the solid tannins are nobler. Very long on the aftertaste.
Robert Parker 93
The 2011 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is blessed with a fragrant bouquet of dried violet petals, hints of burnt toast and plenty of black fruit vying for attention, however, it needs a couple of years to fully coalesce. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins on the entry. This is a big wine, filling the mouth with ease with layers of black fruit, tobacco and a saline tang on the aftertaste. It is quite austere on the finish at the moment. Drink 2017-2030+. Only the super-rich now have the privilege of tasting the wines of Christophe Roumier , which is a shame, and something that Christophe himself must rue. I vividly recall the moment when tasting his Musigny 2005 from barrel and he had just started receiving blank checks for any bottle he could spare. Roumier’s name was about to go from the esteemed to the iconic, with all the positives and negatives that it entails. So, whenever I have the opportunity to taste Christophe’s wines I grab it, whether it is the 2011s following our tasting of 2012s, or a super-rare bottle from the 1960s that appeared at a dinner. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2030