Pure, fresh and really rather beautiful – notably fresher than either the Caillerets or Taille Pieds.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2032
The beautifully complex nose is definitely ripe yet remains agreeably fresh and seductively perfumed with mostly primary aromas tined with enough secondary influence to remind one that this is approaching middle age. There is good richness to the generously proportioned and relatively powerful flavours that exude a bracing minerality on the lingering and balanced finish that also displays very fine depth. For my taste, this lovely effort has arrived at its peak but there is such good density of material that it should continue to age gracefully for years. Tasted several times since release with consistent notes.
Robert Parker 92
The 2009 Volnay 1er Cru Champans was tasted against the 2011, the latter much more expressive and approachable. Speaking to Guillaume d’Angerville himself, seated next to me, I remarked that I thought the 2009 was closing down and he agreed. It has lost its initial exuberance – a bouquet that appears to have closed in on itself. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, stoic and a tad introverted, moody even, slightly grainy in texture with just a touch of piquancy on the finish. I am sure this will ultimately come good, but this is a surly Volnay for the patient. Those without it ought to head for the 2007 or 2011 vintages.
Anticipated maturity: 2022-2040
In a vintage in which so many wines are all about intensity, 2009 Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Champans (magnum) impresses for its perfume, delineated fruit and fabulous overall balance. Refined and impeccable in its sense of restraint, the 2009 is so very pretty and expressive. Silky tannins round out the racy, polished finish. What a gorgeous wine this is. 94
Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029