Robert Parker 94
The 2008 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is performing nicely from bottle, even if it’s not quite as it was five or six years ago, offering up aromas of orange oil, fresh pear, honeycomb, dried apricot and nutty, toasty oak. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with racy acids, chalky grip and a lactic quality that I suspect derives from the vintage’s high levels of malic acid. This is a contender for Bonneau du Martray’s finest Corton-Charlemagne of the 2000s.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2035
Bottled April 2010. Solid. This has pulled up the drawbridge all right. Firm and dry and closed down. Quite painful acidity. Very dry finish. Marked acidity. Just tart mass for the moment. But the acidity and mass suggest that it may eventually open out into something pretty interesting and certainly lively. But all suggests this should be left alone for many years.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027
Here the nose is noticeably riper than the ’07 version with a hint of exoticism to the citrus, pear and white peach suffused nose. The rich and extremely fresh middle weight plus flavors possess an impressive amount of dry extract as well as ample mineral influence on the austere and ultra pure finish that seems to go on and on. While its ’07 counterpart is perhaps a bit more classical in style with more underlying tension, the ’08 has a bit more material and like the ’07, is impeccably well balanced. While it will live for many years, it will probably come to its peak 8 to 10 years from now.
Very pale yellow-green color. Nose dominated by lime, crushed stone and steely minerality. Densely packed and almost painfully dry, with taut, penetrating citrus and mineral flavors showing more energy than flesh today. This ungiving grand cru has plenty of depth and flavor intensity but is an infant today. The stony, austere finish is like touching a live wire. This seems every bit as steely as the estate’s 2007 at the same stage but denser; in fact, this may be even more closed.