Robert Parker 98
Raveneau’s 2007 Chablis Les Clos is less severe, intractably dense, or obdurately stony than most of the vintage’s representations of this great site, being at once electrically energized and practically ethereal in its high-toned expressions of bitter-sweet floral and pit fruit distillates, citrus zest, white truffle, quarry dust, and ocean breezes. Luscious grapefruit and white peach seem to be mingled with a sea water reduction on the palate, leading to a finish that tugs relentlessly at the salivary glands and practically seems to suck blood from your gums, all the while displaying buoyancy that defies gravity. This is magical. If lucky enough to acquire multiple bottles, I would plan to stretch out the experience of them over at least a dozen years. Bernard Raveneau views his bright, mineral-inflected 2007s ” picked from September 10-16 ” as potentially richer versions of 2004, since the former, he indicates, have gained in textural allure during their elevage. That also explains why he did not plan to bottle most of these 2007s until late spring or summer, and I have accordingly not tasted them since bottling. (Incidentally, Raveneau is very excited and intrigued by his 2008s, wines with an effusion of floral and herbal youthful aromatics that he says he has never before encountered, but whose finished results he speculated might combine aspects of 2006 and 2007.) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524
Pale yellow. Compelling, high-pitched nose combines powdered stone, lemon peel, white pepper, violet, ginger and white truffle. Even more vibrant and precise than the Valmur if that’s possible, with incredible energy to its citrus peel and crushed rock flavors. Finishes with extraordinary clarity and finesse. A classic in the making.