Robert Parker 93
The Mortet 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques invokes ripe, bitter-sweet mulberry wreathed in wood smoke, its low-toned suggestions of roasted, charred meats and wet stone making for a deep if somewhat austere impression. The finesse of the tannins here is noteworthy and the palate-staining finish entices and intrigues you into the next sip without a moment’s pause to remove any tiny splinters or assuage finishing roughness. In fact, the personality of this Lavaux is remarkably similar to that of its 2005 counterpart, if with less sheer intensity and considerably less complexity. I would recommend granting it at least 3-4 years’ stay of uncorking, and then plan to savor it over the following half dozen or so. For his first entirely solo vintage, Arnaud Mortet was saddled with a load of challenges, most notably the legacy of hail in so many of his vineyards. His reaction was to back off on extraction and new wood, trends which he seems inclined to continue pursuing even in less tricky vintages. He opines that the “acid structure” of his 2006s ” which are also amply endowed with largely fine-grained tannins ” will help them age well. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018
Bright, deep red. Complex nose melds crushed berries, flowers, minerals and a whiff of game. Supple, sweet and oaky, with bright acidity framing the berry, coffee and cola flavors. This young wine has a high pitch and a firm spine, but comes across as quite pliant today, perhaps due to its sexy oak component.