Good deep red. Ineffable aromas of raspberry, crushed stone and flowers. Like liquid silk on entry, then quite tightly wound in the middle, offering great purity and nerve but hiding more than it’s showing in the way of flavor today. This has a nearly frightful intensity and superb stony persistence. Due to hail in late August, the yield here was just 20 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 25 in 2005, according to Millet. A highlight of the vintage. When I asked Millet to compare his 2004s to his 2001s, he told me that the acidity in the spine of the 2004s is barely tasteable, as the minerality of the wine dominates. "In comparison, the 2001s are gaining in sensuality and elegance," he said. "But their fresh fruit flavors are still fighting their acidity."
Cool and reserved with restrained aromas of dark berry fruits, particularly blueberry with spice and earth undertones give way to rich, full and sweet flavors that are muscular and taut though there is currently a lovely suppleness to the mid-palate, which causes this to seem unduly forward yet the finish reminds one that we’re drinking Bonnes Mares as it simply explodes with huge amounts of dry extract and solid minerality. This seems to positively drench the palate in extract of dark berries yet this is dry and serious with plenty of structure and this will need 12 to 15 years to really show what the underlying material is capable of. This could very well surprise to the upside as the vibrancy and balance are very impressive.