The 2002 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked September 23–26 at 28.4hl/ha, alcohol degrees coming in between 14.3° and 14.8°, a pH of 3.20. It is a vintage that I have tasted several times, and in retrospect, one that never suited Sylvain Pitiot’s late-picked/extracted style of winemaking. Quite medicinal on the nose, it shows just a touch of VA. You might deduce blind that it comes from the hotter succeeding vintage. The palate is medium-bodied, solid and sinewy, delivering plenty of ripe fruit but lacking genuine complexity and terroir expression on the finish. It is not a terrible Clos de Tart, and yet I can’t help thinking what it could have been. Tasted at a private Clos de Tart dinner in London.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2032
Robert Parker 97
Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot’s retirement from the domaine, the 2002 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has long been one of my favorite vintages from this monopole, and at 13-years-old it shows no signs of losing that place in my heart. The bouquet is just so pure and refined, reminiscent of the 2005 in some way, albeit with not quite the same intensity. However, the detail is breathtaking – one of those bouquets that whisks you straight to its place of birth, within those ancient stone walls in Morey-Saint-Denis. The palate is brilliantly balanced, utterly refined with lace-like tannin, perfectly pitched acidity and a gentle build in the mouth towards a glorious, saline-tinged finish that hangs like the final piano chord in an empty hall. Wondrous – perhaps the high point of Pitiot’s tenure?
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2045
First impression is more spice and coffee and fine oak. That celery note again. Fruit more hidden on the nose even than the 2005 and a little less ripe. A hint of violets, cloves, very smooth and velvety tannins. Tastes quite soft but it still stands up straight. Opens up to liquorice. and finishes rounded and spicy. Low-acid vintage. A warm note on the finish. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020