Rather deep copper color. Aromas of brown butter, toffee and walnut call to mind a dry oloroso sherry. Then large-scaled, rich, smooth and mouthfilling, with impressive concentration and a powerful impression of solidity. Shockingly fresh in the mouth following the mature aromas. In fact, this wine seemed to grow more vibrant as it opened in the glass. Finishes very rich and very long. This superrich vintage produced chardonnay with a tendency toward heaviness, but this wine is undeniably impressive.
Disgorged 2012 with a dosage of 5-6 g/l. Starting to look a little more deeply coloured compared with the 1996. Quite a woody smell at first. Broad and yeasty and incredibly rich on the palate, balanced by Seville orange as well as intense citrus. Complex and just gently sparkling. Mouthfilling as well as very long. This is becoming more a wine than a fizz – if I am allowed to referred to Salon as ‘fizz’. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020