The great Jean-Pierre Charlot handpicked Etienne Chaix as his successor to the domaine, and an inspired choice it has turned out to be. The Voillot wines are scintillating and stylish, from top to bottom. Jean-Pierre and Etienne let each vineyard site speak. There is little intervention and only 10% new oak, no fining, and the lightest of filtrations to lift the wines even higher. Each successive cuvee feels like a masterclass, and even the Bourgogne Rouge is worth fussing over. Caillerets and Champans (Volnay and Pezerolles) and Epenots and Rugiens (Pommard) are practically Grand Cru quality. As a range, the wines are expansive and fresh and ‘aerien’: they saturate the palate with intense and focussed fruit, and yet the overall experience feels like a cool, gentle breeze. They are, writes Neal Martin, ‘outstanding and soulful wines.’ All hail Jean-Pierre - and now Etienne too.