Owned and run by brother-and-sister team Jean-Michel and Anne-Laure Charton, Domaine Jean Chartron has completely overturned the once well-defined hierarchy of wine growers in the Cote de Beaune. Now producing some of the region’s very best whites, its wines are now compared to the likes of Comtes-Lafon and Leflaive, its Clos des Chevaliers moving him to write that ‘it almost leaves you weeping with joy’. Much of this is down to the pair’s approach, one that includes earlier picking and reducing the oak to little more than a subtle background effect, allowing the domaine’s mighty terroirs to shine. After being hammered by 2016’s black frost, the 2017 range is nothing short of brilliant. These exhilarating whites are the perfect combination of saline qualities, silky textures and resonant tension. Winehog’s Steen Ohman is well within his rights to confirm Chartron as ‘one of the new top contenders’. Watch this space.