‘An exceptional release.’
Erin Larkin
‘Kumeu River…an enviable reputation for its seriously fine, age-worthy Chardonnays…still an absolute steal.’
Jancis Robinson MW
‘Some of New Zealand’s greatest Chardonnays, not to mention the world’s.’
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW
Among our favourite wines of the last few years have been the tremendous Chardonnays from the great New Zealand estate Kumeu River. The new 2025 vintage – described as ‘an exceptional release’ by the Wine Advocate’s Erin Larkin, proves once again just what a phenomenal range of wines they make.
How does this sound? You can buy a case of their Village wine for as little as £69* ?! As Larkin states ‘It offers sensational intensity and value for money.’
The Brunswick team share a decades long appreciation of these beautifully poised wines and for many years critics like Jancis Robinson have lionised these wines. In particular, Jancis previously alighted upon the superb quality of the next one up – the fantastic Estate Chardonnay, noting its ‘very fine texture! With Puligny savour and lift.’ That’s strong praise indeed for a wine that costs a mere £95* per case! There are absolutely no negatives here – just a wonderful bottle costing under £23 per bottle including the taxes!
Kumeu River have produced a range of Chardonnays which have consistently set the fine wine world alight. The Brajkovich family holdings near Auckland have topped not just their own region and country but have trumped the very best Chardonnays produced from around the world. A sort of ‘Judgment of Paris, Down Under’ tasting by the trade back in 2015 pitted the wines against the Leflaives and Comtes Lafons …well, you probably know the rest. Kumeu River largely came out on top. Made in the finely honed, ‘struck-match Coche Dury’ style, the wines are beautifully radiant affairs with stamina for the long term.
Founder and father Maté, who set things going in the 1970s, has passed but his wife Melba is still MD and children Michael, Paul, Mila and Marijana – not forgetting cellar-man Nigel Tibbits (‘depuis 1974’!) – now run all aspects of the show. The wines now are greater than they have ever been, with increasing vine age playing a part in this.
Beyond those marvellous Village and Estate wines, we have Rays Road – another steal at £95* per case– as well as the highly sought-after 2 single vineyards. Hunting Hill & Maté’s Vineyard might be thought of as the Premier or even Grand Crus.
Close to the winery, Hunting Hill produces lithe wines from a single clone that displays citrus and estuarine notes. Initially taut, it conceals a tremendous inner complexity – it is as sleek as they come. Maté’s Vineyard is the more statuesque and rich of the pair and the 2025 deserves some patience. Offering a glorious future, it is deep, concentrated but exquisitely precise, it comes from Kumeu’s oldest vines.
Simply great wines. Buy and drink these and let someone else pay for the Lafons & Leflaives!
Best wishes,
Brunswick Team.
Tel/WhatsApp +44 (0)1273 054690
2025 Kumeu River, Village Chardonnay
£69 in bond per case (6x75cl)
‘The 2025 Village Chardonnay leads with banana and crushed cashew, musk sticks and preserved lemon. The palate is silky and full of flavor, and although not as complex or weighty as the other Chardonnay cuvées from this iconic New Zealand producer, it offers sensational intensity and value for money. This comes recommended, as usual. 13.3% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2026-2035.’
91 points, Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate
2025 Kumeu River, Estate Chardonnay
£95 in bond per case (6x75cl)
‘Hailing from the exceptional 2025 growing season, the 2025 Estate Chardonnay leads initially with toasty/pencilly oak notes; however, the fruit on the palate is where the quality of the vintage is on show. Here we have yellow peach, sea salt, toasted sage leaf (even bay), quince, fig and white flowers. The acidity is prodigious, and this serves as a prop in the middle of the palate, providing real tension and fierceness to the otherwise ripe fruit. This is a very good wine, and the length through the finish is impressive. 13.6% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2026-2035.’
93 points, Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate
2025 Kumeu River, Rays Road Chardonnay
£95 in bond per case (6x75cl)
‘The 2025 Rays Road Chardonnay comes from the Hawke’s Bay vineyard, and the nose leads with creamed cashew, white peach, citrus pith and salted caper brine. The palate is creamy and sleek, with bright acidity and talcy phenolics through the open-weave finish. There’s a lot of unspent power here—it feels raw and unbridled somehow. This is impressive and quite different from the other cuvées, though it continues to bear the hallmarks of the Kumeu River house style. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2026-2040.’
94 points, Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate
2025 Kumeu River, Hunting Hill Chardonnay
£200 in bond per case (6x75cl)
‘The 2025 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is ripe and thunderous, with salted peach, walnuts and stewed apple notes. This is flavorsome, opulent and impressively distinct from the Maté’s tasted alongside—the vineyards are a stone’s throw from each other. This is nettle-y, laden with apple skins and driven by fruit intensity. The acidity remains a concentrated and powerful player on stage here, as with all the Kumeu River cuvées. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2026-2040.’
994 points, Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate
2025 Kumeu River, Matés Vineyard Chardonnay
£210 in bond per case (6x75cl)
‘The 2025 Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay is powerful and nutty, with ripe orchard fruit. There are also notes of white pepper, pressed linen, green apple, chamomile and salted cashews. The palate is predictably powerful and unbelievably concentrated, with depth and length that feels interminable. This is an exceptional release of Maté’s, one you should make every effort to taste. These wines age so well; don’t acquire them with the expectation that they must be consumed soon. They have a decades-long future ahead, if only you have the patience. 13.7% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2026-2045.’
97 points, Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate
