‘I will say that 2021 is the kind of vintage that I absolutely love, at least stylistically speaking. Otherwise, expressed, it’s a burg geek’s vintage par excellence. The best wines are superbly fresh and transparent as the underlying terroir is wonderfully clear; indeed it’s at the core of each wine. In fact, I would go so far as to say that the terroir is so crystalline in 2021 that even those who doubt its existence might well be persuaded to reconsider their convictions… the wines are strikingly refreshing and tension filled…  They have something of everything in terms of a tantalizing freshness as they are decidedly very pinot in character followed by a dazzling transparency on the palate.’ Allen Meadows on 2021 red burgundy

‘Some have assumed that the 2021 vintage, in which grapes were threatened almost constantly by both mildews… would necessarily produce disappointing wine but I firmly believe they are wrong. I have really enjoyed the classicism of the great majority of the 2021 reds I have tasted so far. These are not blockbusters. They may not last for decades but is that necessary? Many of those from conscientious producers are full of energy, refreshment and terroir expression and are already giving great pleasure. And the 2021 whites, as so regularly, seem to have managed to be blessed by both fruit and refreshment, even if they are available in tiny quantities…I can assure you that the 2021 reds from good addresses are perfectly aimed at lovers of classic burgundy (not too alcoholic!). I’m generally keener on them than on the 2020s, for example.’ Jancis Robinson MW

‘This vintage will appeal to real cognoscenti of burgundian Pinot Noir, to the absolute devotees of fragrance, limpidity and soft, ethereal tannins – that gossamer touch that normally speaking should take decades to evolve. 2021 reds are a pleasure to taste today and will offer early drinking windows across the board, from village level all the way up to many a grand cru… The message of Burgundy 2021 has to be to take all the positives. Great burgundy does not have to be about 50 years of cellaring nor have eternal gravitas. Great wine can be drunk young, while it is fresh and aromatic – and if you can combine that with elegance, purity and, arguably, traditional burgundian typicality, where is the downside?’ Matthew Hayes, Jancis Robinson.com

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By our man in the vineyard Kenny Stewart – Brunswick Director and Fine Wine Buyer.

Small but beautifully formed… that is the Brunswick take on 2021 Burgundy. To that four word precis you could add the words like delightful, succulence, purity, nuance, transparency to describe the wines … and come up with a vintage that is a return to the style of wines produced before global warming became accepted as the new norm in Burgundy. 2021 is more like ‘olden times’. After the preceding trio of ‘solaire’ vintages the 2021 finds the wines from the best producers in the region showing the unashamed purity and vibrancy of the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from identifiable terroirs that people ought to love.  Certainly, us wine-trade tasters – and the producers themselves – found the wines both a welcome surprise and a joyful breath of fresh air – especially having heard of the more than tricky growing season that led up to harvest.  The catastrophic April frosts that rendered the vintage so small were mitigated by conscientious actions and constant hard work of the vignerons who benefitted – just – from a longer, slower ripening period than usual to pull off a great escape with a much later harvest than has become usual.  Arguably the lower quantities produced by the vines, with losses of between 50% and 85 % common, contributed to the fine and final quality of what remained.  If 2021 could connote an image to depict its small but beautiful nature… let us see…it might be a beautiful Bonsai tree – all the mystery and magic of the natural world, tended by man and woman’s hand, perfectly formed, but expressed in miniature!

2021 was unlike the year that preceded it – the polar opposite, one might say.  Last year we reported no major frosts, nor hail, nor mildew pressure, with only heat spikes and lack of rainfall to contend with.  This time round a massive frost between April 6th to 8th affecting the whole of France – with a snowfall ‘chaser’ – proved to be the season’s defining event. This followed a balmy late March that provoked the early budding Chardonnay, in particular, to raise its unfortunate head above the parapet.  Ouch.  Losses were catastrophic with ‘bougies’ (anti-frost candles) no match for the extreme temperatures -8C turbocharged by the moistening effect of snowfall.  Such was the ubiquity of the frost conditions that, unusually, the slopes of 1er and Grand Cru vineyards were often more prone to devastation than the flatter village appellations. Jacques Carillon reported that the candles preserved around 70% of his village appellations but conversely the unforgiving morning sun took aim and had the 1er Crus in its crosshairs and he lost 85% of the crop in these vineyards. This sad tale was not unfamiliar. With the quantity card cruelly dealt so early on the growers had no option but to work as hard as for a normal crop and beyond frost it was mildew pressure both powdery and downy that afflicted the vines and tested producers’ nerves to their limits. Domaine Chandon de Briailles utilized many years of ‘bio’ know-how to preserve vine heath and were rewarded not only with wines of unbelievable delicacy but the yields in their Grand Crus in Corton were largely preserved and there was no need of chaptalisation.  2021 provided the near perfect dovetailing of season with the kind of wines that Claude de Nicolay strives to produce. If ever there was a year to look for the typical expression of this domaine then it is 2021. Moving from South to North we found the picture improved and the Cotes de Nuits growers were looking at losing 45- 50% of their crop rather than 80% plus in the Cote de Beaune. Such growers who have made unending improvements and understanding in viticulture and topography eg Florence and Simon at Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini were the beneficiaries of their extensive expertise and labours and they have perhaps produced the greatest wines of their career, in the context of the growing season.  They, like others, were able to work with an extended season into mid/late September.  It was rarely very hot but warm enough for the small crop of grapes to reach optimum maturity.  The perfectly sculpted wines that were possible depended on vine husbandry, selection and the right choices in the winery.  None of the dedicated growers that we deal with failed on these counts and an upbeat mood and assessment of the wines greeted us when we visited last November, once the wines had gone through their malolactics and 12 months elevage. Month by month the wines had continued to improve showing greater complexity and dimension and less fragility than anyone expected when the grapes were first fermented.

In terms of style, most of the growers we spoke to were unified in declaring an almost unexpected love for the progress of their 2021 ‘offspring’. The terms above succulence, purity, beauty, nuance etc etc were justifiably used and, of course, terroir transparency was commented upon and evident in the vintage. Appellation characteristics too – Vosne shows its violets and red fruit, Chambolle its rose petals and occasional musk, Gevrey its black toned fruit.  All in all, a welcome outcome from a nervy, testing season and a welcome change of style for consumers too, we feel.  When presented with a perfectly formed, balanced beauty from 2021 against a sinewy, broad shouldered and chunky 2018, for instance, we feel that as wine lovers – and Burgundy lovers in particular – we would favour the new vintage. Fresh, bright, complex, supple and beautiful with lower alcohols over sheer power and ‘possible potential’ every time.

The Pinot Noirs from 2021 will be accessible in the short term and will be medium keepers although this is no bad thing. And they will keep as well or likely better than say 2007 and 2017.  In any case, do you really want to wait another 15 years before you actually begin enjoying your wines? Comparisons with older vintages are always tricky – a little bit of 2001, 2014, 2017 in places (more precision than the latter of that trio) but there are no convincing dead-ringer vintages. Jasper Morris has noted that for statistically logged sun hours and rainfall the 2021 season mostly resembles the now-acknowledged ‘great’ 2010 vintage.  That too, seems wide of the mark and we just have to face the fact that all growing seasons produce their own unique signature. Chardonnay, although worst affected in terms of quantity, produced more classical, tensile, fragrant wines than the warm 2018 & 2019 vintages and they are sometimes on a par with the livelier 2020.  More elegant, with signatures of white flowers, 2021 whites mark a return to the finesse and classical beauty that only villages like Puligny are really capable of producing with this widely planted noble grape.  We were reminded a little of 2013, 2011 and 2001 in white – no bad thing – just try those now!   Both whites and reds conform to the classifications showing upwardly gradations as one ascends from regional wines to villages to 1er to Grand Gru.  Just like old times.  And as with old (and modern times) it is the hand of the grower who is key to navigating the vicissitudes of the season. 2021 shows the Brunswick line up of growers to be performing at the absolute top of their game.  Producer, producer, producer in Burgundy… t’was ever thus and 2021 will appeal to proper Burgundy lovers.

We will be offering wines on a grower-by-grower basis, as we finalise allocations and prices. As discussed above, allocations will be markedly down corresponding to the tiny yields. With those sweeping crop losses prices are not going to be cheaper, although most growers we spoke to want to be realistic and not punish faithful clients. Given the smaller quantities and the immense quality produced at those growers we represent, we would suggest clients strike while the iron is hot and remember that the wines of Burgundy are rarely, if ever, available for less later on.

Please contact us if you have any questions or want to discuss any of the growers and their wines in the coming few weeks.

Kenny Stewart, Director and Fine Wine Buyer