‘A welcome return to a classic style of Bordeaux in terms of lower ripeness levels and less alcohol…it does not rank with the greats… [with]  a handful achieving remarkable levels of quality…’ Neal Martin 

‘…quite a stylistic departure from recent vintages and may well be just what you are seeking.’ Jane Anson

‘…much more interesting than the media consensus gave it credit for…it has produced several genuinely great wines.’ William Kelley

2021 Bordeaux is like no other recent vintage we have tried, in some ways mirroring the post-Covid uncertainty period we live in, as much as reflecting its growing season, which differed greatly from the preceding trio of ‘solaire’ vintages.  But different wines wherever you look, uncertain even by commune  – never mind right or left banks. The word ‘heterogeneous’ might have been invented for the 2021 vintage.  That covers both quality and quantity. Not that there are not some very good, and interesting wines to be had.  There were clearly some over-performers defying expectation and we tasted with the same admiration as the critics did. The freshness characterising them does seem to be a unifying factor.  Along with their lower alcohol levels the 2021 wines will be a breath of fresh air for many modern drinkers and consumers.

One particularly welcome aspect concerning the 2021 vintage was the ability to visit the region and taste again free of the travel shackles blighting the wine merchant life for the last years. Visiting chateaux and tasting wines, seeing familiar smiling faces after an absence beats tasting an array of samples sent by post in all manner of wonky vessels every time! It is clear that chateaux wanted to explain the vintage and get their story across with their 2021 wines.

Spring frost was accompanied by hail and mid-season rain created significant mildew pressure. Yields were affected although many chateaux on gravel near the Garonne were able to maintain healthy quantities.   But as discussed the picture is heterogeneity.  The great Pichon Lalande for instance were in 15-16 hectolitres per hectare zone – almost unheard of in Bordeaux.  A good period of August sun steadied the ship and September too was much more consistent although forecasts of October rains pressured estates to either pick earlier than their ideal or wait and risk things. Those who picked earlier produced this cooler, more tense classical style of Bordeaux and generally those who waited – and did not suffer too much from dilution – produced riper, softer more easy-going wines. The acidity is bright, tannins remarkably fine although lighter than the mid 90’s vintages that some chateaux were keen to compare their wines with.  Overall, however, the wines don’t possess the flesh associated with recent vintages nor those top wines from 1996.  The chateaux dealt with the vintage hand they had before them,  did not heavily extract, had in many cases to chaptalize a degree.  This is not necessarily a bad thing – happened for centuries and includes such luminaries as fabled Margaux and Cheval Blanc among the wines of the vintage. The focussed fresh pure wines are a product of such an approach.

Pricing and an ever more tortuous allocation process of the Bordelais have often taken the shine off the en-primeur process – with some welcome relief on the 2019’s. And the loss of quantity for many chateaux will impact initial allocations and possibly ominously affect price.  The Covid related backdrop with the client in the driving seat for the last 2 years may well be under threat due to the age old supply and demand theorem surrounding 2021. However, our advice remains is to buy wines only if the pricing reflects quality and with a further eye on the even more volatile world circumstances we currently inhabit. We suggest that consumers and clients buy carefully and follow chateaux with a sensible outlook on price wherever possible.

As for which wines to buy? We will assess the releases even more carefully than usual and making our offers sparingly.  It is not a vintage to attempt to create a tidal wave of interest by simply offering release after unexpurgated release – it is a vintage in which to plot your course wisely.  Keep an eye on the limited, selected set wines of we get behind in our offers and on our new website.  And please don’t hesitate to ask for recommendations – that is what we are here for at Brunswick.

Kenny Stewart, Director and Fine Wine Buyer