‘From a small harvest the [2024] Vintage Ports show incredible freshness, complexity, and a wonderful sense of balance.’
David Guimaraens, Head Winemaker, Fladgate Partnership
‘The keynotes of 2024 are purity and refinement… elegance and poise…and tannins of great quality.’
Adrian Bridge, MD, Fladgate Partnership
‘this is a wow of a wine (I wrote ‘wow’ twice in my notes) that combines the purity and finesse that is the hallmark of 2024 with power and depth’
19.5/20 Richard Mayson on Fonseca 2024
There’s been something of a drought in the world of Vintage Port since the back-to-back releases of 2016 & 2017, the last of which was released way back in 2019. So, it is lovely again to be look at something a little different and the supreme quality of the recent release of 2024 Vintage Ports. We attended the preview tasting and feature 10 super wines that will come to our shores in autumn this year. Freshness, harmony, complexity and perfume are the key notes this year. With quantities low, they have beautiful depth too. The 2024’s exemplify the strict selectivity of the Port producers to feature only exceptional years.
2024 was an old-fashioned Douro vintage. Quite a thing in this era of climate change. One free from erratic rainfall and wild heatwaves. As such, it produced the most harmonious and balanced wines in many years, particularly across the key Touriga varieties Franca and Nacional. The Touriga Nacional harvest began mid-September giving beautiful florality and acidity, if small yields. Almost perfect mild conditions with coolish nights towards the end of the month meant that the Franca finally had its optimum conditions to produce precise aromatic wines. The supremely patient Port houses quickly reached a consensus on a ‘Vintage Declaration’ for the first time in 7 years.
Both the Symington family and the Fladgate Partnership whose wines are featured below are delighted that the 2024’s allow for the most classic distinctions in style of each wine to shine through. That much was joyously evident as we tasted through the range below – Dow’s drier gravitas and finesse, Graham’s rich, demerara-infused weight, Fonseca’s perfumed lift and spice matching its magisterial lusciousness, Taylor’s restrained power and longevity. They were all identifiable and recognisable in these young wines. Don’t forget the elegant, aromatic approachable Croft – the oldest house – established, incredibly, back in 1588!
Beyond these classics we have a couple of ‘special edition’ style wines Grahams Stone Terraces and Quinta do Vesuvio’s spectacular, ethereal Capela that emerges from micro-terroirs and centenary vines – a mere 1% of its production!
Some of these wines are very limited and you could do worse than capture the Symington Family Presentation Box which has 7 beautifully presented top, top wines including that limited pair. This little number would make the perfect christening or anniversary gift – but then again all of the wines below would work a treat in that respect!
For those of us of a certain age, we could certainly enjoy these 2024 wines younger than in the old days. But no doubting these fabulous ports will go on to benefit the children and grand children in many years time. Hopefully, they will toast us for having the foresight to buy them!
We have used the notes of of fortified specialist Richard Mayson – and for what it is worth we think he is spot on – and will add other critics notes to the Brunswick site when they become available.
Best wishes,
Brunswick Team.
Tel/WhatsApp +44 (0)1273 054690
Wines shipped this autumn. Prices per case in bond (6x75cl or 12x75cl in halves) except where noted and for the 2024 Symington Family box above. Larger formats also available on request.
2024 Symington Family Vintage Port Collection – in Presentation Box of 7 bottles
As pictured above – featuring Cockburn, Dow, Graham, Graham Stone Terraces, Quinta do Vesuvio, Quinta do Vesuvio Capela, Warre
£764 per case in bond (7x75cl)
2024 Cockburn
£264 per case in bond (6x75cl)
‘A blend from Quinta dos Canais and Vale Coelho, both in the Douro Superior, 63% Touriga Nacional, 24% Touriga Franca, 9% Alicante Bouschet and 4% Sousão: characteristically deep in colour like all these wines; open and gentle on the nose with a pronounced floral character (orange blossom); similarly suave and gentle initially on the palate, mouth-filling and very flattering in style, some dark chocolate concentration with tannins rising to a lovely rich, complete, firm finish. 2,980 cases.’
18/20, Richard Mayson, RichardMayson.com
2024 Croft
£318 per case in bond (6x75cl)
£324 per case in bond (12×37.5cl halves)
‘Based on Quinta da Roêda just upstream from Pinhão, just 1,600 cases declared in total. Deep youthful crimson and rather more demure on the nose (compared with the two Taylor wines above) with soft, seductive plummy fruit underlying as well as something slightly exotic; plump and opulent initially on the palate, verging on luscious with lovely plum, and damson fruit backed by soft, supple, ripe tannins leading to a long, firm linear finish, with a juicy jelly bean quality. Exuberant yet precise in style in common with most wines from 2024. Drink over the medium term.’
17/20, Richard Mayson, RichardMayson.com
2024 Dow
£348 per case in bond (6x75cl)
£360 per case in bond (12×37.5 halves)
‘From Quinta do Bomfim and Quinta da Sra. da Ribeira in the Douro Superior, a blend of 40% Touriga Franca, 35% Touriga Nacional, 15% Vinha Velha and 10% Alicante Bouschet: if anything, deeper in colour than Warre above; gloriously ripe on the nose and expressive already with a nicely lifted touch of hedgerow fruit giving off a lovely perfume; suave and smooth initially, especially for Dow, with peppery tannic grip rising in the mouth, long and linear, tight knit and dry in style as befits Dow (3.4 baumé) but in no way overpowering on the finish with beautiful definition. Certain to be a classic. 5,535 cases.’
19/20, Richard Mayson, RichardMayson.com
2024 Fonseca
£396 per case in bond (6x75cl)
£402 per case in bond (12×37.5cl halves)
‘A blend from Santo António and Cruzeiro in the Pinhão Valley with more fruit from Panascal downstream, 3,600 cases in total. Seemingly the deepest in colour of the Fladgate quartet combining perfume and glorious black fruit concentration on the nose (there’s a touch of dark chocolate here); similarly rich and profound on the palate, plummy fruit backed by firm, ripe sinewy tannins, almost explosive and beautifully structured, leading to a peacock’s tail of a finish that goes on and on. Still a little stern and raw, this is a wow of a wine (I wrote ‘wow’ twice in my notes) that combines the purity and finesse that is the hallmark of 2024 with power and depth. This will be a long-term keeper.’
19.5/20 Richard Mayson, RichardMayson.com
2024 Graham
£348 per case in bond (6x75cl)
£360 per case in bond (12×37.5cl halves)
‘A blend from all the Graham quintas: Malvedos and Tua with Vila Velha and Vale de Malhadas, the latter in the Douro Superior, 55% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 9% Vinha Velha and 6% Sousão: Characteristically deep and inky in colour, subdued on the nose with just a touch of heat showing through, dusty earth with mint and eucalyptus; similarly dusty, ripe and fleshy on the palate with breadth and sweetness, firm but broad ripe tannins piling up mid-palate leading to a long structured, spicy finish, again well-defined and magnificent overall. 5935 cases.’
19.5/20 Richard Mayson, RichardMayson.com
2024 Graham, The Stone Terraces
£510 per case in bond * (3x75cl) *
‘The 6th vintage of this wine from east, west and north-facing terraces at the heart of this predominantly south-facing estate, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Alicante Bouschet and Sousão, co-fermented in lagar. Again deep with a rather wonderfully exotic, tropical fruit ripeness evident on the nose, a hint of chutney, fragrant, ripe but in no way jammy; sweet and succulent initially on the palate with firm, ripe fine grained but still gritty tannins rising in the mouth to a ‘wow’ of a finish, a real peacock’s tail which expands in the mouth. Brilliant and beautiful. Just 520 cases.’
20/20 Richard Mayson, RichardMayson.com
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97-99/100 Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate
2024, Quinta do Vesuvio
£282 per case in bond (6x75cl)
‘Just 1,510 cases representing 4% of the total production of this magnificent estate on the south side of the River Douro in the Douro Superior, 47% Touriga Franca (planted in the 1970s), 30% Touriga Nacional, 13% Alicante Bouschet, 10% Sousão: very deep inky crimson hue; restrained but well defined on the nose, lovely pure berry fruit with a nice green edge; this freshness and purity of fruit is evident on the palate too with spicy tannins rising in the mouth, lovely definition and a finish that has perfect poise despite being the sweetest of all the wines at 4.2 baumé.’
18.5/20 Richard Mayson, RichardMayson.com
2024 Quinta do Vesuvio Capela
£390 per case in bond * (3x75cl) *
‘The 6th vintage declaration blending Vinha Velha, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca Alicante Bouschet and Sousão from the heart of the estate, just 430 cases: inky and dense with tight knit yet complex aromas with a floral character and a hint of lavender; immediately rich and dense in style, dark chocolate concentration with big, bold ripe tannins that rise and explode in the mouth. All there, mighty yet refined with a lovely fine-grained finish. At 3.6 baumé, made to a drier style than Quinta do Vesúvio.’
19.5/20 Richard Mayson, RichardMayson.com
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19/20 Julia Harding, JancisRobinson.com
2024 Taylor
£396 per case in bond (6x75cl)
£402 per case in bond (12×37.5cl halves)
’A blend from Terra Feita and Junco, Taylor’s main quintas in the Pinhão Valley, along with Quinta de Vargellas in the Douro Superior. 5,000 cases in total. Deep, opaque blue-black colour; open and aromatic like the Sentinels but with another dimension, ripe, floral, racy and airy (the first time that I think I have used these words to describe Vintage Port); rich and supple with vibrant yet beautifully defined berry and damson fruit backed by firm, fine-grained schistous tannins, not big in the scheme of things but so pure and precise with a long, grippy finish. This wine has outstanding finesse which you can appreciate and enjoy now but it has the balance and poise to last and last.’
18.5/20 Richard Mayson, RichardMayson.com
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19/20 Julia Harding, JancisRobinson.com
2024 Warre
£282 per case in bond (6x75cl)
£288 per case in bond (12x75cl halves)
‘A blend of 38% Touriga Franca, 34% Vinha Velha (old, interplanted vines), 17% Touriga Nacional and 11% Sousão from Quinta da Cavadinha, neighbouring Netas and Quinta do Bom Retiro: lovely inky crimson colour; dense, gorgeous but still sullen and withdrawn on the nose. It smells fleshy (i.e. ripe and complete) and it tastes similarly rich and broad with firm, spicy-peppery tannins and a long, linear finish. This is not big but it is supremely elegant and graceful with great purity. 4,280 cases in total.’
18.5/20 Richard Mayson, RichardMayson.com
